The Italian Alps had an abundance of snow for the last ski season. In winter snow chains are now compulsory when driving from Como to the local ski resorts in Lombardy and Switzerland. Only a couple of times have we had to fit them to the car – once when we have been in Madesimo and the snow has descended. Then a day in December when returning down the snaking Maloja Pass after visiting St Moritz. Luckily we have not had to use them in Vercana!
As the ski season ends the snow-capped mountain peaks and bright starry nights provide a great vista round the shimmering lake well into spring. Colourful flowers come into bloom and the locals prepare their all important vegetables plots. After hitting ski slopes we enjoy relaxing around the apartment and meeting up with local friends.
Vercana village is made up of several small areas – Arbosto, Cassera, Ljubljana, Obbio and Vico. It is a thriving hillside community with a village school and nursery; the Church of San Salvatore and the Chapel of Madonna della Neve; a small children’s playground; a pizzeria, two local bars, three village stores; comune offices and local bank. Many of the old stone houses on the narrow cobbled streets date back to the sixteen century some have frescoes.
Occasionally we call in at the local village bar ‘Caffe’Aggio’ which is situated close to the village school. Although the bar is popular with villagers catching up the news and gossip the owner and his family are always pleased to serve visitors wishing to practice their Italian. The village store next door to the bar is run by the same family and has a good selection of provisions as well as fresh bread each morning. It is great to experience the atmosphere of Italian village life away from the main tourist hub yet within minutes we can access all the amenities the lakeside resorts have to offer.
A steep walk up to the next hamlet of Caino cuts through cobbled streets and woodland paths to reach the old church of San Sebastian where the views of the northern lake are stunning. The walk continues higher to Monti di Vercana where the upper pastures make an ideal stop for a picnic with fantastic wide views over the lake and surrounding areas. It is a great location for photographers to take some amazing shots of the vista. Here goats and sheep graze and dotted around hillside are chalets which are used as summer homes. This area is also popular with keen cyclists wanting to explore the mountain routes. Our friends who are enthusiastic fell runners back in the UK also enjoy a morning run here when they visit Vercana!
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